Manaslu: yes!
This review is for Manaslu circuit, done with Nepal Trekking Experts (NTE). NTE specializes in Manaslu area, although they cover many areas. I was a member of a three person group, each of whom went solo like me (we were strangers before the trek). Total hiking days/distance/vertical was 11 days/160km/~9300m, plus 2 more days of jeep driving, 1 each way: Kathmandu to Machhakhola at start and Besisahar to Kathmandu at end. Peak trekking altitude is 5150m ≈ 16,900 ft, and max sleeping altitude is 4450m ≈ 14,600 ft, in Dharmasala. For the record, I took Diamox starting ~4 days before Larkla la pass; this was prescribed by my Dr., not NTE. I do believe it helped with the higher altitudes, as I never had any symptoms of AMS (acute mountain sickness).
Short version, this trek was great and I recommend it to anyone who has the inclination and ability. The trek starts at relatively low elevation, ~900m (3000 ft) and stays under 3000m (10,000 ft) for the first 3 days. Those 3 days are hotter but also more scenic, and I personably enjoyed them immensely. We saw a lot of villagers and animals along the paths, and the plant life/jungle was very lush. Starting hiking day 4, one moves to higher altitude, 3500m ≈ 11,500 ft, and one starts feeling that the environment is changing, becoming more stark. Also, NTE reduces the distance and vertical gain that you’re hiking each day, to reduce chances of AMS. In this phase, you typically reach your next town by 1pm, and then do a relatively moderate afternoon hike to somewhat higher altitude for acclimatizing. There are also optional ‘side trip’ days. Our group decided not go to Manaslu base camp, which is a ‘hard core’ steep climb of ~1200m (4000 ft), but we did Pung Gyen Gompa instead. The views there are just gorgeous, truly amazing. We also did not do the all day side trek to the Tibet border, but instead did a much shorter version as an afternoon acclimation hike.
Hiking day 9 was our ‘over the top’ day, from Dharmasala to Bihmthang, and this is definitely the hardest day of the trek. Everybody gets up at 3:15, eats, and starts hiking by 4 am (everyone brings headlamps). The grade (slope) is actually not too steep, so a moderate steady pace does it. We summited at Larkla La pass ~7:20am, spent 20-30 doing pics and enjoying the view, then started the long descent to Bihmthang. Despite the fact that you’re descending, it’s still a workout, because of rocky footing underneath. Hike day 10, descent from Bihmthang to Gowa, switches back to a lusher environment, and is quite scenic. The last hiking day is short, and a ‘local jeep’ takes you to Besisahar, which is a real city of ~40k people.
I’d like to put in words of appreciation for our guide and porters: Thakur, Gakul, and (Kancha?). One of our three members had bad AMS at Dharmasala, and he had to go back 1 stop to Samdo. Gakul went with him, and accompanied him when he did the summit direct from Samdo, a real he-man feat.
Other comments about the tea house life:
1) Food is limited in choices, but there’s enough variation to keep one happy. Unlike most, I’m not a big fan of Dal Baht, but there’s noodle/rice/egg dishes.
2) Nights are cold up high but the sleeping bag NTE gave me always kept me warm. At the higher altitudes, the tea houses all have thick blankets to put on top for additional warmth.
3) bathrooms: get ready to squat!
This was a once in a lifetime trip for me, and I’m glad that NTE made it worth it.
based on 63 reviews
